Bone percentages found using http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/search/list
leg quarter- 27%
brisket bone- 32%
To find info on other cuts of meat
1. Go to –> http://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/search/list
2. Type in your meat EX: chicken thigh raw –>
3. See the list, make selection, click- EX: first choice is “Chicken broilers or fryers, thigh, meat and skin, raw” Click on it –>
4. The new page that pulls up has all the info we’ve got on “Raw Chicken thighs w/meat & Skin”
5. ** Click on line “Full Report (All Nutrients)”, this gives you access to the amount of bone in the meat you’re looking at. In this example we see “Refuse: 15% Refuse Description: Bone and cartilage 15%” ** Average chicken thighs have about 15% bone.
A Proactive and integrative wellness veterinarian discusses vaccinosis.
Dr. Karen Becker
Here is another great article about the damage overuse of vaccines can do:
By the way sunscreen is full of carcinogens. Meaning sunscreen which is supposed to protect you from skin cancer CAUSES cancer. Here are some natural sunscreens which will do nothing but benefit your skin:
By Peter Dobias DVMJuly 2011 Issue
Did you know that dogs that are fed processed foods are about five times as likely to suffer from stomach bloat and torsion than dogs fed raw or cooked food? There are many other factors that can help prevent this serious life threatening emergency naturally.
The general consensus is that GDV (Gastric Dilation Volvulus) affects mainly larger breeds and it is caused by twisting of the stomach and gas formation. Some time ago, I decided to observe the patterns of dogs with a history of stomach problems as well as those who were lucky enough to survive this life threatening condition. After years of observation and clinical practice, I’ve developed these simple steps to help your dog avoid bloat.
- AVOID GRAIN-BASED PET FOOD AND IDEALLY ANY KIBBLEThe digestive tract of the dog is ideal for digesting protein. Unlike humans, the dog’s gut has a very acidic pH, making it well equipped to resist pathogenic bacteria but not to digest grains. I have never seen wild canines grazing in a field of grain, and it is not a natural food choice for most carnivores.
If you feed your dog processed food, you may be increasing his risk of bloat. Most commercial foods are highly processed and when your dog eats kibble, it turns into porridge. The stomach doesn’t need to work very hard to digest it, and over time, its wall muscles become weak. A weak stomach is much more prone to dilation and gas build-up which happens especially with carbohydrate rich foods. In my opinion, kibbles, especially grain-based formulas, are one of the main sources of stomach bloat.
- FEED THE RIGHT RAW BONESFeeding your dog poultry, lamb or other small to medium size raw bones makes the stomach wall and muscles stronger which will prevent distention. Any gas build-up is much easier to burp out or move downwards into the intestinal tract when the stomach wall muscles are strong.
Feeding bones is, from my point of view, one of the most important steps in preventing GDV.
- BE CAREFUL ABOUT FEEDING FRUIT WITH PROTEINIf you feed your dog fruit, it should never be fed together with the protein meal, because they digest very differently. Fruit digests in the stomach quickly and it will ferment if it remains too long. To prevent bloat, feed fruit at least one hour or longer before a meal and at least four hours after meals.
- EXERCISEThe general consensus is that dogs should not exercise after eating. This applies to dogs fed both raw and processed food. When the stomach is full, it is more likely to flip and twist with sudden movement, jumps or turns, creating torsion. Never exercise your dog vigorously within threeto four hours of feeding.
- PROVIDE THE RIGHT NUTRIENTSVitamin and especially mineral deficits may have a negative effect on muscle function and digestion, which can lead to GDV. It is important to make sure that your dog’s diet is not lacking in essential nutrients.
- ENSURE GOOD SPINAL ENERGY FLOWI like to compare the body’s energy network to a watering system where the spine provides the main water or energy supply and the branches lead to various garden beds or the organs.
If you constrict a hose, the water will not flow and the carrots will not grow. The body is not much different – if one of the spinal muscle segments becomes impinged or blocked, it will affect the organs related to that segment. One can recognize these blocks by a spinal exam or a hand scan and energy flow changes will be noticeable.
Through years of observation, I created a surprisingly reliable body map of relationships of spinal segments and organs. In the process I have found a very close connection between the stomach and spinal point at the thoracic lumbar junction, the transition between the last thoracic and the first lumbar vertebrae.
I have also noticed that dogs that are prone to stomach problems show congestion, inflammation and sensitivity exactly at the thoracic-lumbarjunction.
When I discussed this with several emergency vets, they didn’t seem to be aware of the connection between this spinal segment and GDV until I asked if they saw any signs of vertebral degeneration, arthritis or spondylosis in this region of the spine when they took X-rays of bloated dogs.Indeed, they confirmed that those changes are frequently present in dogs with bloat which only confirmed what I thought. Back injuries are likely a predisposing factor to GDV.
If you want to prevent stomach bloat, you definitely have pay attention to your dog’s spine. A regular monthly assessment and treatment of your large dog’s spine is one of the most important factors in GDV prevention. The modalities I find especially helpful are physiotherapy, chiropractic,massage, intramuscular needle stimulation (IMS) and acupuncture.
- FITNESSThe spine and the flow of energy in the whole body can be clearly influenced by the level of exercise a dog enjoys. A low fitness level can createenergy stagnation, but this problem is not as frequent as over-exertion and burn out.
Many people continually throw balls and toys for their dogs and do not know that the dog’s body is designed only for short periods of sprinting and not for 20 or more non-stop minutes which leads to injuries.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU SUSPECT BLOAT
Remember that simple panting is not a sign of a bloat. Panting is the canine way of sweating and is considered normal if your dog looks comfortable.
If you see signs of severe distress – the gums are pale, there are signs of hypersalivation and the stomach is distended – rush your dog to thenearest vet or emergency clinic immediately. If safe, light sedation and a stomach tube will be done first, followed by X-rays and very possibly an emergency surgery. On the way to the hospital, I recommend giving a homeopathic Nux vomica 200C or Carbovegetalis 200C.
PREVENTIVE SURGERY – GASTROPEXY
Gastropexy is a preventive procedure where the stomach wall is attached to the rib cage to prevent the stomach from flipping. I must say that I am not comfortable with attaching the stomach and restricting its natural movement and function. Any surgical intervention affects the body’s energy channels and the unnatural stapling of the stomach to the rib cage decreases its mobility.
On the basis of my practical experience and observation, I believe that the best way to prevent GDV is to feed natural non-processed food, feed raw bones, provide the right nutrients, feed fruit separately from the protein meals and ensure that the spinal energy flow is good.
Original article can be found at this link: http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/prevent-bloat-in-dogs-naturally
Dr. Peter Dobias has been in veterinary practice since 1988. In 2008, he decided to sell his thriving holistic veterinary practice in Vancouver, BC, Canada to dedicate his future years to disease prevention and transforming the face of veterinary care to less invasive and more natural treatment methods. He believes that we can create a healthy and long life, naturally. For more information, questions and articles visit www.peterdobias.com
By Dr. Becker
Anticipated regulations from the Food Safety Modernization Act will affect pet food production. According to PetfoodIndustry.com, as a result, product safety has jumped to the top of the priority list for pet food manufacturers.
One of the primary concerns, especially with the rash of recalls over the last few years, is that humans are being exposed to salmonella bacteria from processed pet food – in particular, dry food.
Pet food producers are implementing a variety of tactics to control salmonella contamination, including more vendor inspections, hazard analysis and critical control point plans, and hold-and-release programs. As you might expect, additives are also being looked at for their ability to control salmonella. One of those substances is sodium bisulfate.
A producer of sodium bisulfate and scientists at Kansas State University are collaborating to study the ability of this substance to prevent recontamination by salmonella after the pet food extrusion process.
Adding Sodium Bisulfate to Kibble May Help Control Salmonella Contamination
Sodium bisulfate is not to be confused with menadione sodium bisulfate, which is synthetic vitamin K3. It should also not be confused with sodium bisulfite, which is a chemical preservative used in fruits and wines.
Sodium bisulfate, also known as sodium hydrogen sulfate, is an acid salt. Its primary function is acidification. It is currently used in some processed pet foods to acidify urine, reduce pH levels, and control microbes in soft treats and liquid digest. But according to PetfoodIndustry.com, “New research conducted at independent laboratories indicates that sodium bisulfate controls Salmonellacontamination on the surface of extruded dry petfood.”
Dry pet food is heat-treated twice – once during pre-conditioning and again during extrusion. The very high temperatures used in these processing steps should kill the salmonella present in the food. It is therefore suspected recontamination occurs primarily after the food is extruded – possibly inside the conveying system or from airborne dust in air-handling systems.
If either of those sources of contamination is the cause, it’s assumed the salmonella is only on the outside of the kibble. This is where sodium bisulfate comes in. It is a “surface-active” compound that is highly acidic and in a physically dry state. This means it can be turned into a powder and applied to the surface of kibble for purposes of salmonella control.
And Now for the Bad News…
The good news is pet food companies are actively searching for ways to reduce human exposure to salmonella bacteria in their products.
The bad news? Adding a substance like sodium bisulfate to dry pet food is a little like putting lipstick on a pig (no offense to pigs). The pig may look more attractive. It may not even look like a pig from certain angles, but it’s still a pig. Salmonella-free kibble is still kibble – highly processed, double heat-treated pet food that lacks moisture and other nutrients that can only be obtained from fresh, whole, real food.
In addition, you should know that sodium bisulfate isn’t an entirely benign additive. According to MedlinePlus, in humans, symptoms from swallowing more than a tablespoon of this acid can include burning pain in the mouth, diarrhea, vomiting, and severe low blood pressure.
Sodium bisulfate is produced in a “pet grade” as well as a technical grade. I wasn’t able to find a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on the pet grade product, but the MSDS on the technical grade product states that inhalation of the substance damages the mucous membranes and upper respiratory tract. Sodium bisulfate is classified as a corrosive, so swallowing it can cause severe, even fatal burns to the mouth, throat and stomach; touching it can cause severe skin burns. Chronic exposure can result in lung irritation, tracheal bronchitis, persistent coughing, and corrosion of teeth.
The danger of salmonella poisoning from pet food is a risk to the humans serving the food – not the dogs or cats eating it. Healthy pets are able to handle a much higher bacterial load than their owners. It’s important to understand that distinction.
If you feed your pet kibble (which I don’t recommend), the following simple handling precautions should keep you and your family safe from contamination:
- Wash your hands thoroughly after handling any pet food or treats.
- Don’t allow very young children, elderly people or those who are immunocompromised to handle pet food or treats.
- Keep all pet foods and treats away from your family’s food.
- Do not prepare pet foods in the same area or with the same equipment/utensils you use to prepare human foods.
- Do not allow pets on countertops or other areas where human food is prepared.
- Feeding pets in the kitchen has been identified as a source of infection. If you can arrange to feed your pet in an area other than your kitchen, consider doing so. Alternatively, feed your pet as far away from human food preparation areas as possible.
I don’t recommend feeding your dog or cat a commercial pet food with special additives designed to control salmonella. I’m an advocate of wholesome, natural diets for pets (and people). I’m not in favor of chemicals added to food. And I certainly don’t recommend feeding your pet or any pet a highly processed, preserved kibble dusted with a potentially corrosive substance.
Caveat Emptor ~ (Let the Buyer Beware)
If I could ask you a simple dog-related question such as this one: “Help! What can I add to my pet’s diet for stiffness, achy joints and terrible mobility?” what would be the first thing you think of to add to the diet?
It may be likely that somewhere in your thought process, the word glucosamine popped into your cloud of genius ideas. The antidote to all joint problems.
Like love at first sight at a high school dance, we have just made eye contact across the room, but what do we actually know about glucosamine?
It is a nutritional supplement found on every health store and pet shop’s shelves. Two of the most common forms of glucosamine sold are ground up shellfish shells such as lobster, shrimp, or crab and microbial grain fermentation. Young or old, our pets need glucosamine, and lots of it! According to Dr. Chris Bessent, “When glucosamine is orally administered, about 30% to 40% is actually absorbed into the bloodstream.”
Glucosamine is naturally found in both human and pet bodies alike. Much like the clever combo name Brangelina, the nickname given to celebrity couple Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, the name glucosamine comes from the combo names of Glucose and the amino acid Glutamine. Glucosamine produces what is called Glycosaminoglycan and is used to repair the creakiness in your pet’s joints by repairing cartilage and tissues.
We have established glucosamine is definitely a friend we want to introduce to our pet’s diet, so who can help us?
Meet the marketers behind the pet food manufacturers, AKA ‘The Mutual Friend’. The Mutual Friend claims they have a close-knit relationship and all of their pet food contains glucosamine. Perfect right?
“It contains a natural source of glucosamine,” boasts the pet food packaging that promises healthy, strong joints through joint, mobility, or senior support labels.
Leading dry food manufacturers go on to say, “We use by-products because they are a rich natural source of glucosamine, and we use lots of it!” This leads the consumer to believe the package is supplying your pet with the sufficient amount of glucosamine, but is this true? Is it enough?
According to research, on average, your pet needs about 20mg of glucosamine per 1 pound of body weight a day. This means that a 50lb adult dog would need about 1000mg of glucosamine a day.
Okay, so we know how much glucosamine our pet needs. Can we trust our Mutual Friend to supply it in the recommended amounts?
This is where the Planet Paws Nutrition Bloggers come in to perform some private investigation.
We decided to investigate kibble because it’s the most popular format of pet food.
The four most common places to find kibble are big box stores, wholesale clubs, specialty pet shops, and veterinarian’s offices.
We decided to head to the most popular spot first, the Big Box Store/Supermarket. Our blog team selected to analyze the bag that most strongly promoted joint support and glucosamine. After choosing the bag, we needed to look at the guaranteed analysis. All pet food labels require a guaranteed analysis on the package to advise the purchaser of the product’s nutrient content. We looked for where the glucosamine was listed and noted the line stated glucosamine min. – 300mg/kg.
Ok, time for math class!
300mg/kg basically means 300mg of glucosamine per 1 kilogram of kibble. In the pet food industry, it is known that on average 4 cups of kibble equals 1 pound. Therefore 1 kg is equal to 8.8 cups.
So if our average 50lbs dog needs 1000mg, we would have to feed it over 29 cups of big box store pet food each and every day!
The serving size on the bag suggests that a dog of this size would only need 2 cups per day, so 29 cups probably isn’t a good idea.
We jumped back into our car and hoped for better success at our next locations. We headed to the wholesale club, a high-end pet shop, and finally the journey ended at our local vet’s office. We purchased one bag of each of their best selling kibble, all of which claimed promises of joint support.
Here’s what we found:
Whole Sale Club Healthy Joints Aid claims: “Natural sources of glucosamine to help support healthy joints, cartilage and mobility in Large Breed Adult dogs.” The guaranteed analysis read: Glucosamine, minimum – 375 mg/kg. This means our 50lb dog would have to eat over 23 cups per day!
The high-end kibble we bought at the pet shop claimed: “Contains guaranteed levels of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate”. The guaranteed analysis read: Glucosamine, minimum – 500 mg/kg. Again, we would need almost 18 cups in order to reach 1000mg. And this was in an $80 bag of kibble!
Last but not least, we figured our local veterinarian brand would save us. To put this last hope to the test, we purchased a $120 bag of kibble. This had to work, right? The claim states that it will “help alleviate pain and improve joint support”. The guaranteed analysis reads: Glucosamine Hydrochloride minimum – 950mg/kg.
This was by far the highest level in all of the bags we’d tested, but is it enough?
Alas, 950mg per 8.8 cups would mean our 50lbs dog would need over 9 cups a day to receive the 1000mg of glucosamine needed. According to this product’s manufacturer, we should only feed 3 ½ cups a day, meaning our pooch would only receive 377mg of glucosamine a day. This is a far reach from our desired amount.
Unfortunately, not one of the bags of kibble could meet our required supplement needs, no matter where we purchased the food.
Where does that leave us? Is all hope of making friends with our beloved glucosamine lost? Not exactly… if glucosamine is what you need, then you are better off finding a more steady supply by supplementing or even better feeding a species appropriate raw diet to your pet.
For raw diet enthusiasts, an easy source of glucosamine may be found naturally occurring in the cartilage of fresh beef trachea. It contains around 5% glucosamine. After the math, 1 ounce of trachea would hold over 1400mg of glucosamine!
Back to the pivotal question, can we trust our Mutual Friend? This is where marketing can get tricky. Our Mutual Friend did not technically say we could rely on it solely to contain the recommended dosage needed for our pet’s diet. Caveat Emptor, friends! As pet parents, we owe it to our fur kids to read the fine print and not rely on the claims.
“By-products in our kibble are used because they are a high source of natural glucosamine” … if you believe in that statement and rely on it solely to keep your pets healthy and happy, it sounds like you might be the by-product of marketing.
Dogs Naturally Magazine July/August 2013 Article